How to Join Granny Squares: 4 Easy Slip Stitch Joins (Free Cheat Sheet & Video!)

You’ve got a pile of granny squares. Congratulations!

Now you have to turn that pile into an actual thing, and that means picking a joining method.

Which sounds like no big deal right up until you realize it changes the entire look of your finished project.

A join can disappear into the fabric, or it can be a whole design feature. It can lie perfectly flat, add a ridge on the back or the front, or add a fun lacy detail.

Same squares, four completely different blankets.

So I filmed all four of my favorite slip stitch joins and wrote them all out below. Pick the one that fits what you’re making, and you’re good to go!

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All four of these joins use nothing but slip stitches, so if you can slip stitch, you can do every single one of them. No new stitches to learn here!

Scroll down for all four written tutorials, grab the free printable cheat sheet so you have them all on one page, or hit play on the video and follow along with me.

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4 Ways to Join Granny Squares​
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Which Join Should You Use?

Here’s the quick version, so you can skip straight to the one you want.

A Quick Word About Your Corners

You’ll notice the chart above makes a note about how many chains are in your corners, and there’s a good reason for that.

The two zigzag joins work into the corner space itself, so it makes zero difference whether your squares have ch 1, ch 2, or ch 3+ corners. There’s a corner space there, you put your hook in it, done.

The back loop only slip stitch join and the flat slip stitch join work into the actual corner chains themselves. So the number of chains you have changes what you do when you get there.

The main tutorials below are all written for ch 2 corners, since that’s the most common.

If your squares have ch 1 or ch 3 corners, I’ve got separate notes at the end of those two joins that tell you exactly what to do differently.

Supplies & Materials

• Yarn: the same yarn you used for your squares, in whatever color you want your join to be
• Hook: the same size hook you used for your squares (I used a 5.5 mm crochet hook for the ones in the demo)
• Notions:
  • yarn needle (linked ones are nickel free and include a bunch of needle sizes!)
  • scissors (these thread snips are titanium coated, so if you have a nickel allergy like me, these are awesome and don’t make you break out!)

A note on join color: a matching color makes the seam disappear, and a contrast color makes it a design feature.

The zigzag joins especially look amazing in a contrast color, so don’t be afraid to have fun with it.

Abbreviations

• sl st: slip stitch
• ch: chain
• BLO: back loop only

OK we’re about to get on with it, but first…

There are a few things that will make this whole process go a lot smoother.

1. Block your squares.

Joining is way easier when you block your squares first. It makes them more even and neat, and everything just lines up better.

But you know, it’s up to you. For a blanket, it’s not really practical to block them all, but for something smaller it’s a good idea.

2. Every square needs the same number of stitches per side.

It’s way easier to do these joins if you have squares that are all the same size with the same amount of stitches.

You can probably join ones with different amounts of stitches, but these tutorials are just assuming you’re doing matching squares.

3. Plan your arrangement.

Before you start joining, lay all your squares out and figure out where you want them to go.

Nothing is fun about joining 87 squares and realizing the 3rd and 86th one need to swap places.

4. Use the same size hook.

If you use a 5.5 mm hook for your squares, use the same size hook to join them. And the same size and type of yarn. It makes life easier.

5. Leave a tail that’s at least 5 inches long.

Every time you fasten off, and weave it in good when you’re done.

If you’re right handed, you’ll want to work from right to left.

If you’re left handed and you crochet in the opposite direction, you’ll probably go from left to right. Just do whatever feels right and stay consistent.

Either way we’re starting at the top of the blanket or whatever you’re making and working down.

Horizontal Seams and Vertical Seams

This part applies to all four joins, so I’m explaining it once up here instead of four separate times.

Horizontal seams join your squares together into rows, leaving the vertical columns unjoined. The vertical seams join up those columns.

Because of that, your vertical seams will cross over the horizontal seams you already made. Every time you come to one, you’ll skip over it and continue on.

That is the only difference between working a horizontal seam and a vertical one. So once you have the horizontal seams down, you have basically all the info you need for the vertical ones, too.

The exceptions are on the BLO slip stitch join and the flat slip stitch join, when you’re joining squares with ch 1 or ch 3 corners. But I cover that on those joins below, so no worries.

Video Tutorial

So this video is long, but I put timestamps so you can easily skip to the part you need. (You might have to watch it over on YouTube to do that.)

And hey, be sure to subscribe to my YouTube channel so you don’t miss any new videos!

Honestly, if you’re a visual learner, watch this first and then use the written instructions below as your reference while you work.

Joins are one of those things that click instantly once you see them.

Join 1: Zigzag Slip Stitch Join

This is a visible zigzag seam that adds some texture and a little ridge on the front, and it looks especially good worked in a contrasting color.

This is the easiest of the four and it works with any number of corner chains, so if you’re joining your first project, start here. This is the join I used on my own most recent granny square blanket.

Horizontal Seams

1. Make a slip knot with your yarn and place it on your hook. Starting with the two squares at the far right of your layout and working to the left, sl st into the top right corner space of the bottom square.
2. Sl st into the bottom right corner space of the top square.
3. Sl st into the next stitch to the left on the bottom square.
4. Sl st into the next stitch to the left on the top square.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 all the way across, going back and forth between the two squares. Your last two sl sts of the pair go into the left corner space of the bottom square, then the left corner space of the top square.
6. Move to the next pair of squares to the left. Sl st into the right corner space of the bottom square, then the right corner space of the top square. Then continue exactly as you did in steps 3 and 4.
7. Keep going that way until every pair of squares in the seam is joined. Cut your yarn and fasten off by pulling the tail through the loop on your hook, leaving a tail at least 5 inches long to weave in later.

Repeat for each horizontal seam.

Vertical Seams

Same steps, with one change: hold your working yarn behind the squares as you go. Each time you reach a horizontal seam, skip over it without stitching into it, and go straight into the corner spaces of the next pair of squares.

Weave in all of your yarn tails.

Join 2: Lacy Zigzag Chain Join

This is the same back and forth zigzag type of thing as the first join, but with a chain 3 between every slip stitch, plus we skip some stitches.

That opens the seam up into a row of lacy zigs and zags and adds a little width to your finished piece.

It’s a great pick if you want something airier and lighter, or if you want your squares to cover more ground. Like the first join, it works into the corner space, so any number of corner chains is fine.

Horizontal Seams

1. Make a slip knot with your yarn and place it on your hook. Starting with the two squares at the far right of your layout and working to the left, sl st into the top right corner space of the bottom square.
2. Ch 3, then sl st into the bottom right corner space of the top square.
3. Ch 3, then sl st into the first stitch to the left of the corner space on the bottom square.
4. Ch 3, skip one stitch on the top square, then sl st into the next stitch.
5. Ch 3, skip one stitch on the bottom square, then sl st into the next stitch.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 all the way across, going back and forth between the two squares, until you have worked into the last side stitch on the top square.
7. Ch 3, then sl st into the left corner space of the bottom square. Do not work into the left corner space of the top square. It stays empty for now and gets worked when you do your vertical seams.
8. Ch 3, then move to the next pair of squares to the left and sl st into the bottom right corner space of the top square. You’re skipping the right corner space of the bottom square here for the same reason.
9. Ch 3, then sl st into the first stitch to the left of the corner space on the bottom square. From here, continue across this pair by repeating steps 4 and 5.
10. Keep joining pairs across the seam the same way. Every set of inner corners gets that same treatment: work the bottom square’s left corner, skip the top square’s left corner, skip the next bottom square’s right corner, work the next top square’s right corner.
11. When you reach the final pair of squares, work across until you have made your sl st into the last side stitch on the top square. Ch 3, sl st into the left corner space of the bottom square, ch 3, then sl st into the bottom left corner space of the top square. Both corners get worked here at the end of the seam.
12. Cut your yarn and fasten off by pulling the tail through the loop on your hook, leaving a tail at least 5 inches long to weave in later.

Repeat for each horizontal seam.

Vertical Seams

Same steps, with one change: each time you reach a horizontal seam, skip over it without stitching into it, and continue on into the corner space of the next pair of squares.

There’s no need to hold your yarn behind the squares for this one.

And remember those corners you skipped? This is when they get worked. (And it’s so satisfying.)

Weave in all of your yarn tails. (Seriously, don’t just cut them off, you’ll regret it.)

Join 3: Back Loop Only Slip Stitch Join

This one is worked with the right sides of your squares held together, so the slip stitches form a raised ridge on the back and the front stays smooth and flat. It’s basically invisible on the front side.

These instructions are written for ch 2 corners, which is what this join suits best. It works with ch 1 and ch 3 corners too, and I’ve got notes for both at the end, but it won’t look quite as neat.

Horizontal Seams

1. Make a slip knot with your yarn and place it on your hook.
2. Start with the square in the top right corner of your layout and the square directly underneath it. Fold the top square down onto the bottom square so their right sides are touching. You’ll be looking at the wrong side of the top square. Working from right to left, you’ll start in the corners on the right hand side.
3. Insert your hook into the back loop of the leftmost corner chain of the square facing you. Because the back of that square is facing you, the back loop is the loop closest to you.
4. Keeping your hook in that loop, insert it into the back loop of the leftmost corner chain of the square underneath. On that square the back loop is the one farthest from you.
5. Yarn over and pull through all of the loops on your hook to make a sl st.
6. Insert your hook into the back loop of the next stitch on both squares the same way, then sl st.
7. Repeat step 6 all the way across to the corners at the other end.
8. At those corners, insert your hook into the back loop of the rightmost corner chain of both squares and sl st.
9. Take the next two squares to the left and fold them together the same way, right sides touching. Insert your hook into the back loop of the leftmost corner chain of both squares and sl st, then continue across as in step 6.
10. Keep going that way until every pair of squares in the seam is joined. After you work the second corners of the last two squares, cut your yarn and fasten off by pulling the tail through the loop on your hook, leaving a tail at least 5 inches long.

Repeat for each horizontal seam.

Vertical Seams

Same steps, with one change: fold your whole row of squares down so the right sides are touching, and start in the corners at the far right just like before.

Each time you reach a horizontal seam, skip over it without stitching into it, and go straight into the back loops of the leftmost corner chains of the next pair of squares.

Weave in all of your yarn tails.

If Your Squares Have Ch 1 Corners

Horizontal seams: Start by inserting your hook into the back loop of the single corner chain on both squares and sl st, then work the sides as normal.

At the corners on the left, work into that corner chain the same way, then add on your next two squares and continue.

Vertical seams: Start and work the sides the same way. When you reach the corners on the left, skip the corner entirely, sl st into one of the loops of the horizontal seam, then sl st into the back loop of the first side stitch of the next pair of squares, skipping that corner too.

Continue down the side, and repeat that at every horizontal seam.

If Your Squares Have Ch 3 Corners

Horizontal seams: Start by inserting your hook into the back loops of the center corner chain on both squares and sl st, then sl st into the back loops of the leftmost corner chain on both squares. Work the sides as normal.

At the corners on the left, work into the rightmost corner chain and then the center corner chain, then add on your next two squares and continue.

Vertical seams: Start and work the sides the same way. When you reach the corners on the left, work into the rightmost corner chain, then sl st into one of the top loops of the horizontal seam, then sl st into the back loop of the leftmost corner chain of the next pair of squares, and continue.

Repeat that at every horizontal seam.

Why Ch 1 and Ch 3 Don’t Just Skip Across

You might notice those two don’t skip straight over the horizontal seam the way the ch 2 version does. That’s on purpose.

With an odd number of corner chains, those corners were already worked when you made your horizontal seams, so there’s nothing left to work into.

If you skip straight across without slip stitching into the seam, the join puckers at that intersection. That one extra slip stitch is what keeps it flat.

Join 4: Flat Slip Stitch Join

For this one your squares stay lying flat next to each other and your yarn stays behind them the whole time, so the seam ends up nice and smooth right between the squares.

No ridge on either side, and it’s a lovely visible join that looks amazing with a contrasting color pop.

Written for ch 2 corners. Ch 1 and ch 3 need one small adjustment, and this join handles them more easily than the back loop only join does.

Horizontal Seams

1. Make a slip knot with your yarn and place it on your hook.
2. Start with the square in the top right corner of your layout and the square directly underneath it. Leave them lying flat on your work surface, right sides up, one above the other. Hold your working yarn behind the squares. It stays back there for this entire join.
3. Working from right to left, insert your hook into the back loop of the leftmost corner chain of the bottom square, then into the back loop of the leftmost corner chain of the top square.
4. Yarn over behind the squares and pull through all of the loops on your hook to make a sl st.
5. Insert your hook into the back loop of the next stitch on the bottom square, then the back loop of the next stitch on the top square, yarn over behind the squares, and pull through to make a sl st.
6. Repeat step 5 all the way across to the corners at the other end.
7. At those corners, insert your hook into the back loop of the rightmost corner chain of the bottom square, then the back loop of the rightmost corner chain of the top square, and sl st.
8. Bring the next two squares into place to the left. Insert your hook into the back loop of the leftmost corner chain of the bottom square, then the back loop of the leftmost corner chain of the top square, and sl st. Then continue across as in step 5.
9. Keep going that way until every pair of squares in the seam is joined. Cut your yarn and fasten off by pulling the tail through the loop on your hook, leaving a tail at least 5 inches long.

Repeat for each horizontal seam.

Vertical Seams

Same steps, with one change: keep your yarn held behind the squares and start at the far right corners of the row, just like before.

Each time you reach a horizontal seam, skip over it without stitching into it, and go straight into the back loops of the leftmost corner chains of the next pair of squares.

With ch 2 corners you’re working into the same number of corner chains in both directions, so the loop naturally comes out about the right size and you don’t have to do anything special where the seams cross.

Weave in all of your yarn tails.

If Your Squares Have Ch 1 Corners

Horizontal seams: Start by inserting your hook into the back loop of the single corner chain of the bottom square, then the back loop of the single corner chain of the top square, and make your first sl st. Work the sides as normal.

At the corners on the left, sl st into that corner chain the same way, then bring in your next two squares and continue.

Vertical seams: Start and work the sides the same way. When you reach the corners on the left, skip the corner, pull the loop on your hook a little bit longer, then sl st into the first side stitches after the corners of the next pair of squares and continue across.

Repeat that at every horizontal seam.

If Your Squares Have Ch 3 Corners

Horizontal seams: Start by inserting your hook into the back loop of the center corner chain of the bottom square, then the center corner chain of the top square, yarn over behind the squares, and pull through to make a sl st.

Do the same in the leftmost corner chains of both squares. Work the sides as normal. At the corners on the left, work into the rightmost corner chain and then the center corner chain, then bring in your next two squares and continue.

Vertical seams: Start and work the sides the same way. When you reach the corners on the left, work into the rightmost corner chain, then pull the loop on your hook a little bit longer, skip over the horizontal seam, and insert your hook into the back loop of the leftmost corner chain of the next bottom square, then the next top square, and sl st.

Repeat that at every horizontal seam.

Why You Lengthen That Loop

Pulling the loop a little longer is what keeps the intersection from puckering. You’ll end up with one slightly longer stitch at the center of each intersection.

That’s normal and prevents the corners from puckering when you have an odd number of corner stitches.

In Conclusion

And that’s four different ways to turn a pile of squares into an actual finished thing.

If you’re not sure which to pick, go with the zigzag slip stitch join. It’s the easiest, it works with any corner, it lies flat, and it looks great in a contrast color.

You can branch out from there once you’ve got a feel for how joins work.

And if you want all four of these on one printable page with no ads and no scrolling, grab the free cheat sheet up above. It’s the version I’d want sitting next to me while I actually work.

If you join up a project, I’d love to see it! Tag me on social media or share a picture of your makes in the Yarn Stash Facebook community!

Once you’ve got this one down, make these granny squares next:

• The Perfect Granny Square (5 colors, super tidy, no magic ring!)
• The Classic One Color Granny Square (no turning, and no wonkiness!)
• The Almost Solid Granny Square (only has holes in the corners!)
• The Super Solid Gapless Granny Square (zero holes, start to finish!)
• 43 Fun & Unique Free Granny Square Patterns (if you want to go down a rabbit hole)

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How to Join Granny Squares: 4 Easy Slip Stitch Joins (Free Cheat Sheet & Video)